Samsung Washer Error Codes and What They Mean
Match the code on your display to a plain answer, try the safe checks first, and call when the code points to a failed part.
A Samsung washer error code names the system that stopped the cycle. 4C or 4E means water isn't filling, and 5C or nd means it can't drain. dE or dL is the door lock, UE or Ub is an unbalanced load, and LE or LC points to a leak or the water level sensor. Many clear after a hose, filter or load fix.
Samsung prints one fault under several spellings. Its US support page groups them together, so 4C, 4E, nF and 1 4C all mean the same "not filling" problem. Which one you see depends on your model. A few codes are trickier: the same letters can mean two different faults on two different washers, and those are called out below.
Sacramento Appliance Care connects Sacramento and Roseville households with local companies that repair Samsung washers, dryers and refrigerators. This library starts with Samsung washer codes. Every meaning here comes from Samsung's own US support pages, linked in each section, and the library will grow to cover other brands.
Samsung washers
Samsung Washer Error Code Table for Top-Load and Front-Load Models
Codes separated by commas are the same fault on different models. Starred codes mean different things on different washers.
| Code on the display | What Samsung says it means | Safe check, then when to call |
|---|---|---|
| 4C, 4E, nF, 1 4C | Not filling: water isn’t entering the washer correctly. | Open both valves fully; hoses hot to hot, cold to cold, no kinks; no Flood Safe hoses; unplug for one minute. With the valves off, clean the inlet filter screens. Call if the code continues. |
| 4C2, 4E2, CE, 14C2, nF1 | Hot/cold error: the cold supply is extremely hot because the hoses are swapped. | Reconnect blue to blue, red to red. Samsung says this code does not indicate that service is needed. |
| 5C, 5E, nd, SE, SC, 1 5C | No drain: water isn’t draining at the correct speed, or at all. | Level the washer, check the drain hose (below), clean the pump filter on front loaders. Call if it still won’t drain on a test cycle. |
| OE, 0E, OC, 0C, 1 OC, 1 0C | Overflow: too much water in the washer. | Run the same drain hose checks as 5C. Call if the code repeats. |
| LE, LC, 1E, 1C, LC1, 1 1C, 1 LC | Water level or leakage: moisture where it doesn’t belong, or a sensor fault. | Look for small leaks; check hoses for kinks; run an empty cycle with no detergent to spot suds. Call if no suds appear and the code continues. |
| dE, dE1, dE2, dL, dS, d5, FL, LO, L0, dC*, dC1, 1 dC, 1dC1, 1dC4 | Door error: the door isn’t detected as closed and locked. | Check the latch and remove anything caught in the door. Call if the door or latch is damaged. |
| ddC, dC3 | Add Door error: the small add-a-garment door isn’t closed and locked. | Clear the Add Door opening and close it firmly. Call if the latch is damaged. |
| UE, Ub, U6, 1 Ub, 1U6, dc* | Unbalanced load: the washer can’t finish the spin. | Untangle and spread the laundry, close the door, press Start. Repeated codes mean a spin problem worth a visit. |
| Ur | Unbalanced load retry: the washer adds water and tries the spin again. | Nothing to fix. The cycle runs longer. |
| Sd, SUd, 5d, 5UD, SUdS, 5Ud5 | Excess suds: the washer pauses so the suds can settle, then carries on. | Use less detergent, and only HE detergent. No service needed. |
| SDC, 5DC | Detergent drawer isn’t completely closed. | Push the drawer in until it clicks. |
| E2, bE2, 6E2, BE2*, 8E2* | Jammed button: a panel button reads as stuck. | Power off, then press and work each button to its edges. Call if a button is damaged or the code returns. |
| PF, 9C1, 9C2, 9E1, 9E2, 2E, UC, 19C1, 19C2, 3E* | Voltage error. PF also appears after a power outage, an unplugged cord or a tripped breaker. | Put the washer on its own circuit, with no extension cord. Call if the code continues. |
| tE, tE1, tC | Temperature sensor error. | Power off two to three minutes and restart. Call if it returns. |
| HE, HE1, HC, Hr, 1 HC | Heater error. | Power off two to three minutes and restart. Call if it returns. |
| 3E*, 3C, E3, 1 3C | Motor error (3E is a voltage error on some models). | Power off two to three minutes and restart. Call if it returns. |
Source: Samsung washing machine information and error codes, Samsung US support, checked September 29, 2026.
Read carefully
Samsung Codes That Mean Different Things on Different Models
Three codes trip people up because Samsung reuses them. On every one of them, Samsung's advice is the same: check the user manual for your exact model.
3E: voltage or motor
On some Samsung washers 3E is a voltage error, fixed by giving the washer its own circuit. On others it's a motor error. The difference matters, because a motor code that survives a restart usually means a repair visit.
dC: door or unbalanced load
dC is a door error on some models and an unbalanced load on others. If the door is latched and the load is spread evenly, your manual will tell you which fault the washer is reporting.
BE2 or 8E2: stuck button or MEMS sensor
Some models use BE2 for a jammed control button. Others use it for a MEMS sensor error, which Samsung lists with its sensor faults. Working the buttons loose fixes the first. The second needs a technician.
One more model quirk from Samsung: FlexWash washers show 1dC4 if the rubber button next to the upper washer's latch is missing. Replacing that button clears it, and no service is needed.
Before you call
Error Codes You Can Clear Yourself
Safe to handle at home
- 4C2, CE, nF1: swap the supply hoses so hot and cold match their inlets.
- Sd, SUd: cut the detergent dose and switch to HE detergent.
- SDC: close the detergent drawer until it clicks.
- UE, Ub: rebalance the load and restart.
- Cb or C6: this is calibration mode, not a fault. It turns the drum for one to three minutes and only calibrates correctly with the washer empty.
- dn: a software download. It takes about 15 minutes; keep the power on.
- CL: Child Lock drained the tub after the door was opened. Turn the washer off and on, or turn Child Lock off.
Things Samsung says not to do
- Don’t remove the screw on the back that holds the drain hose holder. Without it the washer can drain on its own and throw LC or 4C codes.
- Don’t use Flood Safe supply hoses.
- Don’t open the pump filter right after a hot cycle such as Sanitize. Let the water cool for about an hour.
- Don’t run the Smart Install self-test while an error code is already showing.
- Don’t force the door while the lock icon is lit.
Most common fix
Drain Hose Checks for 5C, nd and OE Codes
Samsung says an incorrectly installed drain hose is the most common reason for drain problems, and that service is rarely required for them. A hose pushed more than 8 inches into the pipe, or sealed airtight, siphons water out. One that's too shallow can fall out and flood the floor. The problem can build slowly, so check it even if the washer was installed years ago.
On front loaders, open the pump filter panel and clean the filter. Samsung suggests doing this about once a month or every 40 washes, whichever comes first. Top loaders don't have a removable pump filter.
Then start a cycle. Per Samsung's drain guide, the washer should drain at the start of the test cycle, and if it doesn't, it's time for service. A washer that won't spin at all often has the same root cause, because it has to drain before it spins; Samsung's no-spin guide starts with these same checks.
Diagnostics
Run Samsung's Smart Install Self-Test
Many Samsung washers have a built-in test called Smart Install that cycles through the lock, valves, drain and spin and shows a code at the first stage that fails. It's useful when the washer misbehaves without showing a code. To start it on the models Samsung describes: empty the washer, turn it on, set Delay End to 17 hours, hold Start until AS appears, then press Start again.
-
Door lock, display shows 1
The lock clicks. A failure shows dC on front loaders or dC1 on top loaders.
-
Water valves, display shows 3, Co and Ho
Bleach (front loaders), cold and hot valves each let water in. A failure at any of them shows 4C.
-
Agitation, display shows 6
The drum rocks back and forth. On top loaders a failure shows 3C1.
-
Drain, display shows 7
The washer pumps out. A failure shows 5C.
-
High-speed spin, display shows 8
The drum spins to top speed and slows. A failure shows 3C on front loaders or 3C4 on top loaders.
-
Door unlock and finish
The lock releases and OK appears while a short tune plays. No code means the test passed.
Full steps are on Samsung's diagnostics page. Write down whichever code appears and at which stage; it tells a technician a lot before the visit.
Repair visit
When a Code Means a Repair Visit
Samsung's own advice for nearly every code is the same last step: if it continues after the basic checks, request service. Codes that point at a part rather than a setup problem tend to come back after a restart. That includes motor (3E, 3C), heater (HE), temperature sensor (tE) and door lock faults on a latch that is clearly shut. It also includes the codes Samsung gives no home fix for at all:
- AE, AC and related codes: communication error between control boards. AE3 is a DR Ready modem error.
- 8E, BE, 8C, BC family: MEMS sensor error; 8E or BE is a vibration sensor error on some models.
- bE, 6E: motor speed sensor error.
- PE, PC and PE1, PC1: clutch position and clutch Hall signal errors.
- SF, IE, 5F: system error. Sr or 5r is a system relay error.
- 9C6, 9C7, 9C8: high temperature circuit and overcurrent errors.
Before you call, note the model and serial number, the exact code, when in the cycle it appears and what you've already tried. If the washer is still under Samsung's warranty, contact Samsung first, since an outside company will bill you for work the warranty might cover. Out of warranty, the Samsung appliance repair page covers the brand's common washer and fridge faults, and washer repair in Sacramento covers every brand. In California, the repair company has to quote its service call charge before the visit and give you a written estimate before any repair; the repair cost guide explains both.
Questions
Error Code Questions
How do I reset a Samsung washer error code?
Samsung's general advice for any code without its own fix is to power the washer off for two to three minutes, turn it back on and restart the cycle. For fill codes, it also suggests unplugging the washer or switching off its breaker for one minute. If the same code returns, the fault is real and needs a closer look.
What does 4C mean on a Samsung washer?
4C, along with 4E, nF and 1 4C, means water isn't entering the washer correctly. Check that both supply valves are fully open, the hoses run hot to hot and cold to cold without kinks, and the inlet filter screens aren't clogged with debris. A missing hot water hookup triggers it too, even on a cold cycle.
Why does my Samsung washer show Ur or UE?
Both relate to an unbalanced load. Ur means the washer is retrying: it adds water, rebalances and tries to spin again, so the cycle runs longer, but nothing is wrong. UE and Ub mean it gave up. Untangle the laundry, spread it evenly, close the door and press Start. Repeated UE codes on balanced loads point to a spin problem.
Is dC a door error or an unbalanced load on a Samsung washer?
It depends on the model. Samsung lists dC as a door error on some washers and an unbalanced load error on others, and tells owners to check the user manual for their model. If the door is shut and latched and the load is balanced, look up your model number to see which meaning applies.
Can I keep running the washer when it shows Sd or SUd?
Yes. The washer has detected too many suds and pauses so they can die down, then continues the cycle on its own. The code may flash again at the end as a reminder. Samsung says it doesn't mean service is needed; it comes from using too much detergent or a non-HE detergent.
Code still showing?
Call with your Samsung model number and the exact code. A local repair company that works on Samsung washers can take it from there.
Call (XXX) XXX-XXXX